Sunday, April 29, 2007

Taiwan: Crazy for Matsu 瘋媽祖

就像月巴說的:這禮拜中台灣都在瘋一件事,那就是--大甲媽祖遶境。

Just like what Backlight53 said: this week, there is one thing people in central Taiwan are crazy for. That is Da-jia Matsu's inspection tour.


根據林美容教授的研究,媽祖是台灣人最普遍信仰的神明。媽祖生日為農曆三月二十三日,所有的祭祀活動都環繞在其生日前後舉行。「迎媽祖」的巡境活動 是很熱門的活動,最近這幾年,有越來越多年輕人參加。
Based on Mei-Rong Lin's research, Matsu is the deity most commonly worshipped by Taiwanese people. Matsu's birthday falls on the 23rd day of the third month in the lunar calendar. All the worship activities are held shortly before and after this date. Activities related to the Matsu's inspection tour are very hot, and more and more young people join these activities these years.

參加媽祖繞境的人都在做什麼?根據月巴的說法:
扣除跟著一起走的和發願無償供應涼水飲料的人,重點就是傳統習俗:鑽轎底。相傳鑽過媽祖轎底的信徒們,來年就能好願。

What people do in Matsu's inspection tour? Based on backlight53's words: in addition to walking with Matsu and serving free tea and water because they made the wish, the most important tradition is going through Matsu's palankeen. People believe that after going through Matsu's palankeen, they will have a better luck in the future year.

2006年,青輔會舉辦一個媽祖繞境研習營,講解媽祖信仰,並帶有興趣的年輕人參加中部大甲媽祖繞境的活動。信眾會跟著媽祖繞境走八天,全程素食。
In 2006, National Youth Commission held a workshop about the belief in Matsu and brought interested young people to join Da-Jia Matsu's inspection tour in central Taiwan. In this special inspection tour, the believers walk eight days (4/21-4/29 this year) for about 300 km. They only eat vegetarian dishes and sleep in temples.

Nycfour在大甲媽祖繞境青年探索隊體驗日誌說媽祖繞境對信眾的重要性:其實很多人心裡藏了很多心事、很多苦楚平常找不到人宣洩,也無法說出口、找人討論,每年就是等待媽祖來,可以持香助禱,把心中所有的委屈與苦楚,趁每年一 次媽祖過境時,把所有心事說給媽祖聽,所以她們每年一定會在街頭巷口等待媽祖路過,媽祖對於長者來說,比心理醫生還要有用。

Nycfour in Da-Jia Matsu inspection tour youth exploration group blog talked about the importance of the inspection tour to people who believe in Matsu: Many people keep many sad things in their mind. They cannot find anyone to talk to and discuss. They wait for Matsu's inspection tour every year, and hold incense and pray and tell Matsu the bitterness in their life. Because of this, they wait for Matsu's inspection tour every year. To the elders, Matsu is better than psychiatrists.

因為媽祖在台灣有很強的社會影響力,有許多儀式表現出地方勢力的競賽。舉例來說,在媽祖繞境之前,地方勢力會競爭頭香,贏得頭香的可能就是該地區最有勢力的團體。又比如說在彰化,有所謂的搶轎,因為人們相信媽祖會保佑所在地的人。

Because Matsu has very strong social influence in Taiwan, there are some rituals that represent the competition among the local powers. For example, before the inspection tour, local powers would compete for the first incense. In some areas, the group winning the first incense is the most powerful group. In some areas, people even try to 'rob' Matsu because they believe Matsu will protect the area where she is located.

秀岑在大甲媽祖繞境青年探索隊體驗日誌談到搶轎的現況:在信徒心中,只要媽祖所到之處,將會得到庇祐,因此會發生所謂「搶轎」的狀況,尤其在彰化,搶轎的情形最為嚴重。在媽祖駐駕彰化南瑤宮前,抬轎的轎夫會換成刑警CID,當地人士會想盡各種方法來阻止神轎前進,例如:煙火瀑布、炮陣等,並安排壯士去搶涼傘,不過今年南瑤宮信徒並沒有成功,CID真的太多了,讓我覺得像是重大刑案才會出現的人力。

Hsiu-Tsen in Da-Jia Matsu inspection tour youth exploration group blog talked about what they saw in the 'robbing Matsu': These people believe that Matsu will protect the region of inspection tour. Some people try to 'rob' Matsu, especially in Chuanghua. Before Matsu went into Nan-Yao Temple, police officers took over Matsu. Local people tried to use fireworks and firecrackers to stop Matsu, and some young and strong men tried to grab the umbrella that belong to Matsu. This year they did not succeed because there are too many police officers. The number of police officers let me feel there was a serious criminal case.

大甲媽祖繞境的活動吸引無數人參加,然而,這麼壯大的繞境活動是最近這二十年才開始的。根據亦君的文章:今天我們拜訪320年歷史的北港朝天宮,雖然北港朝天宮不在大甲媽祖繞境的路上。事實上,在1988年之前,大甲媽祖之所以出巡是因為要來朝天宮參拜父母,因為朝天宮有奉祀媽祖的雙親,所以每年媽祖生日都會來拜見雙親。然而,1988年之後大甲鎮瀾宮決定不再去朝天宮,因為他們不想表現自己媽祖的等級比朝天宮媽祖低。

Da-Jia Matsu's inspection tour attracted many people. However, it was not the case decades ago. Based on I-Chun's article: Today we visit the Chaotien temple at Peikang which is almost 320 years old, however Chaotien temple is not in the plan of the Matzu pilgrimage. In fact, before 1988 the Chaotien temple was the main reason for Da Jia Matzu pilgrimage. Da Jia Matzue pilgrimage was original mean “visit forefathers”, because in the Chaotien temple has worship Matzu’s parents and every year Matzu has to visit her parents. Nevertheless, in 1988 Da Jia Zhen Lan temple has decided not to visit Chaotien temple anymore because Da Jia Xhen Lan temple do not want rank lower than Chaotien in an academy way’s understanding.

是什麼讓大甲鎮瀾宮感覺比其他媽祖廟等級來的高?根據黃國洲的文章,1987年,大甲鎮瀾宮帶著他們的媽祖到中國去一趟回來之後,因為媽祖信仰源自中國,他們自己覺得比台灣其他的媽祖廟要來的正統。

What makes Da Jia Xhen Lan temple feels it is superior than other Matsu temples in Taiwan? Based on Kuo-Chou Huang's article, Da Jia Xhen Lan temple brought their Matsu to China in 1987 because the belief in Matsu is originally from China. Thereafter, they think they are more orthodox than others.

有些人認為,即使不考慮中國的文化大革命對媽祖信仰的影響,台灣與中國的媽祖還不同。

Some people think that even though we do not consider how Chinese culture revolution destroyed the belief in Matsu in China, there is difference between Matsu belief in China and Taiwan.

根據林美容教授的研究:媽祖原是海神,台灣先民攜之渡海來台,保佑平安,在台拓墾以來,迭獲庇佑,媽祖已然台灣化,由海神而成雨水之神,「大道公風,媽祖婆雨」的傳說更助長迎媽祖常帶來雨水的事蹟傳播。

Based on Mei-Rong Lin's research, Matsu was originally Goddess of the Sea. Our ancestors brought her over with them when they crossed the sea to Taiwan, to protect themselves, and when they moved inwards, cultivating the land of Taiwan, they frequently appealed to her for blessings and protection, and thus Matsu became "Taiwanized," and having started out as Goddess of the Sea became Goddess of Rain. The Taiwanese saying, "Lord Tatao controls the wind, and the lady Matsu brings the rain" further encouraged the belief that the ritual of "welcoming Matsu" often brought rain.

當一些人質疑媽祖背後的政治勢力,許多人只是把媽祖當作是一個宗教信仰。

When some people argued about the political powers behind Matsu, many people only consider Matsu as a religion, like other religions.

Miki說:宗教,是有光的所在。像孩子一樣,在一片模糊黑暗中,只被光吸引。我喜歡正信宗教帶來的光明力量,在這群默默行進的信徒身上,信仰的力量,變得很正向。

Miki said: Religion is the place the light is. We are like children, attracted by the light in the darkness. I like the positive power of orthodox religion. When I saw these believers walking silently, the power of belief is very positive.

電影「練習曲」有自己的部落格,部落格的作者提到他們電影中的媽祖:「拍攝這部片後,我對『信仰』重新有不同的認識。」對宗教,陳懷恩自有一套看法,他認為「宗教不是用來懷疑,而是用來相信的」

The movie 'Island Etude' has its own blog. The author EtudeBike talked about Matsu in their movie: After shooting this movie, I have a different view toward 'religion.' Religion is not for doubting, but for believing.

我們會看到我們想看到的,也許這句話用在宗教上是再合適也不過了。雖然我不在台灣,而且我也說不上是媽祖的信徒,不過我還是很快樂地看著網路上媽祖繞境的影片過過乾癮。我相信媽祖,因為我相信祂的子民。

'We will see what we want to see' is very suitable to describe what religion is. Although I am not in Taiwan, and I cannot say I am a believer of Matsu, I still watched the movie about Matsu inspection tour happily. I believe in Matsu, because I believe in the people who believe in her.

假如對大甲媽祖繞境有興趣,可以參考大甲媽祖繞境新手指南,也許就像Arkun說的,深深感到媽祖進香是極佳的健行/深度旅遊行程,更兼有食宿招待,打著燈籠都找不出這麼好的行程啊!

If you are interested in this activity, you can check 'the handbook of Da-Jia Matsu inspection tour'. Maybe like Arkun said: I feel that Matsu's inspection tour provides good hiking and profound tourism experience with free food and accommodation. You cannot find a better one even with a lantern!

Monday, April 16, 2007

交通建設究竟是在建設什麼?Transport what to where?

在一篇關於戶外休閒的文章「保存的美學」中,李奧帕多教授寫著,「所謂發展休閒旅遊,並非將道路建到風景優美的地方,而是讓人的心靈能敏感地感受到自然的美好。 」

In the essay on outdoor recreation, 'Conservation Esthetic,' Professor Leopold wrote, 'Recreational development is a job not of building roads into the lovely country, but of building receptivity into the still unlovely human mind.'

台灣的總面積大約36000平方公里,山林就佔了百分之三十。中央山脈由南到北徹底阻隔了台灣的東邊和西邊,不但阻擋了來自太平洋的颱風,也阻擋了來自西方的入侵者。自從台灣被中國和日本殖民之後,東西方的交通對於地區發展、政府控制、以及對自然資源的搜刮就非常重要。

The total area of Taiwan is about 36,000 sq. km, and mountains account for 30% of the surface area. The Central Mountain Range has been an important barrier stretching from north to south. It stops typhoons approaching from Pacific Ocean going to the western plains and stops western invaders from going to the eastern areas. Ever since Taiwan was colonized by China and Japan, transportation between the east and the west has played a critical role in the local community development, government control, and natural resource depredation.

自從1871年牡丹社事件後,中國清朝政府就開始「開山撫番」的政策。不過1875年中日戰爭之後,台灣成為日本殖民地,換成日本在台灣建西部鐵路、北迴公路、花東線鐵路等等。國民黨1947年來台灣之後,也陸續建了三條橫貫公路以及南北迴鐵路,整個台灣有一個環狀的鐵路網。

For example, after the Mudanshe Incident in 1871, Chinese government implemented the ‘Kai Shan Fu Fan’ policy, to go into the mountains and the east. Later in 1875, after Japan took over Taiwan, Japanese government built not only railways in the western plains but also roads and railways to the eastern areas. After Kuomintang took over the regime from Japan in 1947, three cross-island highways were built and a circular railway around Taiwan was finished.

最近這一陣子,台灣人討論三個重要的交通建設:高鐵(已完成)、北宜快速道路(已完成)、以及還未敲板定案的蘇花高。

These days, Taiwanese have been discussing three important transportation projects: Taiwan High Speed Rail (finished), Taipei-Yilan Freeway (finished), and Yilan-Hualian freeway (decision not final yet).

台灣之前的經濟發展主要是在西岸平原,所以長久以來一直有壓力要求加強東西兩邊的交通。而現在,人們不只要公路,還要快速道路或是高速火車,如此一來不管從台灣的那個角落都可以當天來回其他任何地方。

For decades, Taiwan's economic growth mainly focuses on the western plains, and there has been pressure to have more efficient transportation from western plains to eastern areas for a long time. And, nowadays, people ask not only 'highway', but 'super-highway' or 'high-speed rail,' so that Taiwanese can travel back and forth to anywhere in Taiwan in one day.

黑貓說,台灣交通變得更快速便利後,心中的那張台灣地圖似乎也跟著縮小不少。

Blackcat said, 'when the transportation becomes faster and more efficient, the map of Taiwan in my mind seems to get smaller and smaller.'

Chieftain也說,我以後應該會經常使用高鐵吧,以我所處地區來看,坐高鐵是比搭飛機更好的選擇。而且搭飛機的話,要從松山出來,我倒不如在火車站出來還比較省錢、方便一些。

Chieftain also said, 'I would probably take the High Speed Rail more often in the future; from where I am located, taking the high speed rail is a better choice, comparing to taking the plane. More, if I took airplane, I would come out from Sung Shan Airport, and the transportation from the airport is more expensive and less convenience than from the train station.'

感謝現代科技,我們的夢想才有機會實現。舉例來說,台灣的雪山隧道(長度為世界第五)可能在工程難度上是名列前茅,因為要貫穿台灣北部最大的山脈:雪山,這條隧道花了十五年完工,十三個人員因公去世(七名泰國人六名台灣人,另有三名台灣人員重傷,根據榮光電子報),以及一台全斷面挖掘機(整個被破壞)。Discover頻道有一集節目就在講雪山隧道的故事:人類創造的奇蹟:雪山隧道。

Thanks to the modern technology, our dreams have chance to come true. For example, Taiwan's Hsuehshan tunnel, world's fifth longest tunnel, probably one of the top most difficult projects to complete in the world. It penetrates into Hseuhshan, the largest mountain in northern Taiwan; the project took 15 years, one tunnel boring machine, and (based on Veterans affairs commission) thirteen workers' life (seven Thai people and six Taiwanese), and resulted in severe injury of three Taiwanese workers. Discovery produced a movie about the story: Man made marvels. Taiwan's Hsuehshan tunnel.

Wisely說,「在以往開車,大概要花費約兩個半小時,而現今只要40分鐘便可到達。這個對滿多在台北工作的人,或是想到宜蘭去觀光遊憩的外縣市遊客來說,真的相當地方便。畢竟對於離鄉在外工作的我們,這條高速公路還是充滿的便利性!我在未來購車之後,可以更常回宜蘭探望父母,也不需要配合火車的時間通勤。」

Wisely said, 'it takes only 40 minutes to go to Yilan from Taipei now, and it was 2.5 hrs in the past. For many people working in Taipei or people who want to spend their vacation in Yilan, it is much more convenient now. For us who work in another city, this freeway is full of convenience and efficiency. If I owned a car in the future, I could visit my parents more often in Yilan, and my schedule would not have to be based on the train schedule.'

赤子童心說,「要是講"人定勝天"太武斷了。這似乎小看了天地自然的力量。但是人所展現的智慧毅力以及堅忍不拔,造就了雪山隧道的誕生。」

Children's mind said, 'it is too arbitrary to say that man will triumph over nature. These words underestimate nature's force. However, it is our knowledge and will that contributes to the tunnel birth.'

雖然很多人快樂地擁抱便捷的交通,越來越多的台灣人開始質疑建築道路的必要性,尤其當工程對環境影響很顯著的時候。

Although many people embrace the efficient transportation happily, more and more Taiwanese question the necessity of building roads, especially when the disturbance to the environment is obvious.

當雪山隧道在施工時,有許多在地層當中的水流失了,在當時嚴重增加工程的困難度。隧道開始使用後,還是有水一直流失。國工局的報告指出:目前由南洞口監測總湧水量約600 l/sec 以下(36 m3/min)...此與日本石井政次與佐久間文彥(1973,1977)對日本全國主要鐵路隧道(273個案例)之長期湧水量所做的調查分析結果,統計出長期湧水量與隧道長度之關係圖相比較,可發現雪山隧道單位長度之湧水量並無特別。而根據中央大學黃俊鴻所主持的報告,隧道湧水對水庫進流量無明顯之影響。即使如此,人們還是憂心隧道的開挖是否會造成水資源的短缺。

When Hsuehshan tunnel was under construction, lots of water inside the geology structure was lost, which increased the difficulty in constructing the tunnel. After the tunnel is open, there is still water loss everyday. Based on Ministry of transportation and communications Taiwan area national expressway engineering bureau, 36 m3 water is lost every minute. Although based on the same bureau, the amount lost is not particular significant compared to the tunnels in Japan. More, based on Chun-Hung Huang's report, the water lost is not related to the amount of water flowing into the reservoirs. Even so, people are still worried about the possibility of the water resource shortage as a result of tunnel construction in the future.

劉克襄說,「大量流失的地下水,到底從何而來。失去這些水後,包括大尾山在內,周遭山林是否仍能跟過去一樣,足以積蓄豐富的水源。整個微區域的雨量,能否經年正常。這些或那些不可預測的嚴重結果,以目前的科學知識,都沒有人敢掛保證,未來恐怕也難有明確的答案。」

Ke-Hsiang Liu said, 'lots of underground water is disappearing, where does the water come from? After losing the water, we don’t know if the mountains and the surrounding forest could still store abundant water. We do not know if the local climate (rainfall) would still be the same. And, based on our current scientific knowledge, no one could predict the severity of the outcome, and an exact answer might still not be feasible in the near future.

Momoge討論這些工程計畫案背後的心態:
如果公共工程的思維是站在發展工商那一面,就會有蘇花高,改天還會有花東高。站在自然那一面,就不會有蘇花高,而是強化現有交通,避免進一步破壞,甚至想辦法復原以往的破壞。
現在蘇花高提出來了,表示「政府就是這樣想」,這很糟糕,因為「內部已經定案了」,不過還沒蓋,還有扭轉的可能。

Momoge discussed about the mindset of people making decision for these constructions: if the mindset behind the public projects leans toward the business/ economic development, then there would be Yilan Hualian freeway, and Hualian Taitung freeway would come shortly; if the mindset leans toward nature, then there would not be highways, rather, the focus would be on reinforcing the current highway structure, to prevent further destruction, and probably even try to reverse the existed destruction. Now the proposal of Yilan Hualian freeway is out there. This is terrible, as ‘the internal decision’ is made. However, the construction has not started yet, and there is still possibility to reverse the decision.

一封花蓮孩子的公開信
過去的開發建設或許讓我們經濟起飛,但也讓我們經歷了許多大自然回報的慘痛代價,更何況要以高速公路帶動經濟的方式已經過於老舊,也有許多實例證明高速公路不等於經濟發展;另外一些人認為花蓮需要方便的交通,但我們認為高速公路絕對不是唯一的方式,科技進步,有更多元的方式可以 增加來到花蓮的便捷性,別讓大公路主義貫徹整個台灣。最重要的,蘇花高這樣的建設具有不可恢復性,當開工後,所造成的破壞將無法彌補回來,縱使再厲害的生態工法,還是要開隧道、建馬路,沒有人可以預估對土地造成多大的傷害。

A letter from people in Hualian: The constructions we had before may be the reason for our economic growth, but it is also the reason for the price we pay for many natural disasters. Furthermore, relying on highway for economic growth is an old strategy, many examples proves that highway development is not equal to economic development. Some people believe Hualian needs a more convenient transportation, but we believe that building highways is not the only choice. With technology advances, there are many alternatives to improve the convenience and the efficiency to come to Hualien. There is no need to let 'highwayism' spread all over Taiwan. Most importantly, the damage to building Yilan Hualian freeway is irreversible. Once the construction starts, regardless of the advancement in our construction methodologies, the destruction can’t be repaired and no one could predict the severity made to our land.

當許多人加入反蘇花高的連署時,Yenwen 有一些不同的看法:
人權、環保意識逐漸抬頭,很多人開始支持公益議題,或許他們覺得支持這些議題才是正義、有道德、人民素質提升的表現,但我不禁要問:
當你在連署這些公益議題時,對於他們的論述,你有能力辨別真偽嗎?
你瞭解政府的政策嗎?
台灣是否已先進到,足以接受「文化、環保高於經濟發展」?
你能提出更好的政策嗎?

When many people cosign to fight against the freeway constructions, Yenwen has different point of view: when human right and environmentalism start to get more attention in our society, more people start to support public topics. Perhaps they feel supporting these topics is the right thing to do, an ethical thing to do, it is a way to show self-quality improvement. But, I can’t stop asking:
when you cosign for the public issues, do you have the ability to distinguish the legitimacy of their proposal? Do you understand the government’s policy? Has Taiwan progressed enough that we can afford to have culture and environment playing more important roles than economic growth? Do you have better proposal?

這些問題都不是輕易回答的了的,不過台灣鐵路局似乎試著回答最後一個問題,今年五月之後會有「太魯閣號」往返台北和花蓮。根據台灣火車介紹,台鐵引進此型車的主要目的是為克服宜蘭線、北迴線彎道多的特性,以縮短台北花蓮間的行車時間至兩小時內。

Well, these are tough questions. But maybe Taiwan Railway Administration tries to answer the last one. There will be Taroko Train running between Taipei and Hualian starting May of 2007. Based on Introductions of trains in Taiwan, the reason to use this kind of trains is to solve the problems for the curves in the railways between Taipei and Yilan, and to minimize the commute to be within 2 hours.

追根究底,我們還是要問「交通建設究竟是在建設什麼?」假如我們有很多道路了,下一步我們想要幹嘛?李奧帕多說,我們應該要打開我們的心讓我們更親近自然。那麼,假如我們有很多錢了,下一步我們想要幹嘛?也許我們會想要活的更快樂更有意義,並且我們的子孫也能活的更快樂更有意義。

To get to the bottom of the questions, we still want to ask, 'transport what to where?' If we have a lot of roads, what do we plan to do next? Leopold said, we should open our heart, to be closer to the nature. Then, if we have a lot of money, what do we want to do next? Perhaps, we want to live a more meaningful and happier life, and then our offsprings can live a happier and more meaningful life.

2:30AM的部落格提到,慈濟的證嚴法師在一個電視節目提到:台灣也沒多大,高速公路一條又一條,像我們這個地方,這樣到底山要破壞多少?樹要砍伐多少?水資源要壟斷多少?都不知道!...我只能呼籲大家克己復禮!如果要救地球,要多種樹,不要再破壞了!要開的路,也已經夠多了。

Mentioned in 2:30AM's blog, Tzu Chi's leader, Dharma Master Cheng Yen said in a TV show, 'Taiwan is small, but we build more and more highways. A place like this, how much destruction to the mountains we may make, how many lumbers we may cut down, and how much water resource we may lose to build the highways? We do not know!...I can only ask all of us to abnegate our desire and preserve proprieties. If we want to save the earth, we need to plant instead of destruction. The roads are enough for us.'